The exuberant 2007 Hermitage Blanc reveals notes of petroleum, crushed rocks, earth, white currants and peaches, an unctuous texture, high glycerin and good acidity. This big, thick white Hermitage will not be as long lived as the 2009, but for drinking over the next two decades, it is impossible to resist. Jean-Louis and Gerard Chave opened a bottle of the 2003 Hermitage Blanc to give me an idea of how this vintage is aging. This monumental offering, which flirts with perfection, has virtually no acidity and is aging beautifully. The Chaves believe it is a repeat of what Gerard’s father made in 1929.

Ripe and dense, but pure and beautifully rendered, with gorgeous mango, quince, fig and pear fruit flavors woven together and offset by quinine, paraffin and blanched almond notes. The finish just sings with fruit, minerality and a kiss of toast. Drink now through 2020. 1,244 cases made. -JM