From one of the greatest years in Hermitage, Jean Louis Chave's 2009 Hermitage Blanc is quite possibly the greatest white ever from this estate (the 2013 will certainly be in the same league, but in a different style) and tops out on my scale. An utterly profound wine in every way, it offers to-die-for notes of liquid rock, licorice, buttered citrus, honey and quince. This gives way to a voluptuous, full-bodied, decadent and heavenly Hermitage Blanc that has massive richness and mid-palate depth while always staying fresh, pure and focused. This is insanely good white that will have half a century of longevity. Bravo!

A stunning display of richness and precision, with almost languid creamed Cavaillon melon, peach and persimmon fruit framed by toasted macadamia nut and brioche hints. This is kept lively by salted butter, chamomile and orange blossom flavors through the very long finish, where a quinine note echoes. Best from 2015 through 2030. 1,200 cases made. –JM