The prodigious 2007 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc (68% Roussanne, 22% Grenache Blanc, and 10% Picpoul) is one of the finest white Rhone Rangers I have tasted. A beautiful bouquet of orange blossoms, honeysuckle, lemon zest, quince, and white flowers is followed by a full-bodied wine with stunning concentration, layered flavors, and good underlying minerality as well as acidity. This sensational wine should provide immense pleasure over the next 3-5 years. This Paso Robles outpost is owned by two Francophiles, Frenchman Francois Perrin (one of the owners of the Rhone Valley's Chateau Beaucastel) and Robert Haas (founder of the import company Vineyard Brands, and a pioneer importer of estate-bottled French wines). Seeking out steep limestone ridges near the Pacific Ocean, Tablas Creek was a work in progress for its first four to five years, but it has come on like gang-busters in the 21st century. The 2007s are unquestionably their finest wines to date, but readers should not overlook the excellent 2006s. Tel. (805) 237-1231; Fax (805) 237-1314

This is an hommage to the owning family’s white Rhone wine from France. It’s a crisp, minerally wine, firm and clean and dry, with flavors of dried citrus fruits, orange peel, honeysuckle flower, vanilla and toast. Shows real elegance and sophistication.——S.H.(8/1/2009)—— 91