The 2010 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc is bright, focused and beautifully articulated. The higher percentage of Grenache Blanc in this vintage gives the wine lovely lift, energy and focus. White flowers, pears and crushed rocks are layered into the finish. This is a great showing from Tablas Creek’s flagship white. In 2010, the blend is 60% Roussanne, 35% Grenache Blanc and 5% Picpoul Blanc. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. As always, my tasting at Tablas Creek was a bit of a marathon session covering several dozen wines, but that is just a testament to a world-class winery that excels at so many things. This year I tasted with proprietor Jason Haas, winemaker Ryan Hebert and assistant winemaker Chelsea Magnusson. Haas describes 2011 as a difficult year. A devastating spring frost reduced yields by as much as 40% in some places. Vintage 2010 was characterized by a long growing season, but without the huge heat spikes that were seen elsewhere. It was also much more plentiful, which gave the winery the quality and ability to bottle its four main red Rhone varieties separately. Tel. (805) 237-1231; www.tablascreek.com

The 2010 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc (from barrel) is a clean, vibrant Esprit layered with white stone fruits, flowers and minerals. There is plenty of richness in the glass in this understated, polished Esprit. In 2010 the blend is 60% Roussanne, 35% Grenache Blanc and 5% Picpoul Blanc. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Tablas Creek was founded as a partnership between Chateau de Beaucastel in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Robert Haas, owner of Beaucastel’s US importer, Vineyard Brands. Tablas Creek is one of the pioneers for Rhone varieties in Paso Robles, not just for the quality of the wines, but just as importantly for creating a nursery of clones from Beaucastel cuttings that are now used widely throughout the region. The estate currently has about 105 acres under vine. Tablas Creek works with indigenous yeasts and favors large, neutral oak barrels and casks for aging. Vintage 2009 was the third in a series of drought years for the estate, which along with a severe spring frost reduced yields dramatically to less than 1.85 tons per acre. The wines, though, are striking. Vintage 2010 could not have been more different. There was no spring frost. Instead the estate received a whopping 44 inches of rain. A cold summer led to a late harvest that started during the second half of October and lasted until early November. Readers will find a broad range of compelling bottles across all price ranges. As an aside, Tablas Creek is one of the highest-quality estates in California that has the facilities and capacity to receive visitors.Tel. (805) 237-1231; www.tablascreek.com