Hartford Court's new 1996 Chardonnay Seascape from Sonoma Coast is a dead-ringer for a high-class white Burgundy. This wine exhibits a smoky, honeyed citrus, orange rind, lusciously fruity personality with underlying minerals. Add to that impressive delineation that is rare for a wine of this richness and size. Still youthful and backward, it promises to evolve gracefully for 2-5 years. One of the star estates in the Kendall-Jackson group known as Artisans and Estates, Hartford Court is a "showcase chateau" in the Russian River Valley, just off Martinelli Road. I have enjoyed everything this winery has released to date. Tel. (707) 887-1532