The lemon and orange blossom-scented 2007 Chardonnay Seascape Vineyard (an incredibly cold, windswept site) offers up copious notes of caramelized citrus, marmalade, crushed rock, and subtle wood, along with high acidity, and impressive layers of concentration. This vineyard is normally harvested in November because it is such a cold, windy zone. All three of these Chardonnays are best drunk in their first 3-4 years of life, although my instincts suggest they will last longer. One of the best wineries in Sonoma, Hartford Family Winery, under the guidance of winemaker Jeff Mangalas, continues to fine tune an impressive portfolio of wines, all from cool climate sites. The top wines are Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs all sold under the Hartford Court label, followed by some Zinfandels (sold under the Hartford moniker) that merit more attention than they receive. All of the winery’s Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are fermented with indigenous yeasts, and are bottled without fining or filtration. The three Chardonnays among the current releases are all outstanding. Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel. (866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707

High acidity marks this vibrant wine, which is from one of Kendall-Jackson’s coolest coastal vineyards. The crispness lends a vibrant tension to the intense flavors of Meyer lemons, orange blossom and minerals, while oak adds softer, spicy notes. Feels racy and nervy all through, in a delicious way.——S.H.(7/1/2009)—— 94