The 1990 Barolo Cerequio opens to a dark garnet or red brick color with evolved aromas of old spice, sun-dried fruit, leather, crushed clove and dried espresso rinds. This Barolo feels big and hefty in the mouth with attractive contours of licorice and cola that help it from being too weighty. Despite the wine’s age, you can feel the thickness and general extraction of fruit that the Chiarlo family sought to obtain in this warm, fruit-forward vintage. Compared to the other wines in this tasting, the Barolo Cerequio is among the most dense and powerful in terms of mouthfeel. It wraps tightly around the palate with thick layers of spice and prune. It’s too bad that much of its natural sparkle has dimmed with time. If you have a bottle in your cellar, it’s time (maybe overtime) to pop the cork. Drink: 2014-2017.