The 2005 Coteaux du Layon Carte d’Or smells of grilled pineapple, baked quince and apple, and anise. In the mouth, it exhibits succulent richness of quince and melon, with a more enveloping and creamy if less fresh or elegant impression than its 2004 counterpart. It finishes with impressive length, if a slight youthfully superficial sweetness which will diminish even as the wine adds complexity over the next 5-7 years. Importer: Ex Cellars wine Agencies, Cambridge, MA; tel. (617) 876-5105

Certainly sweet, but a sweetness held in check by layers of dry botrytis. This is an aperitif wine, its flavors of apricots touched with white figs making it seem fruity rather than unctuous. Screwcap.——R.V.(10/1/2007)—— 89