Castelgiocondo’s 2004 Lamaione is a big, full-bodied Merlot (from vines in Montalcino) packed with jammy dark fruit, chocolate, herbs and tobacco. Though it is made in a less extreme style than some previous vintages, it remains an overblown, overoaked wine. It shows little of the distinction and polish, particularly in the tannins, that defines the best wines of Montalcino, or Tuscany for that matter, in the great 2004 vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700