The 1978 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru was offered by Jean-Nicolas Méo, and as he poured the wine, he made a point that this was made by his father Jean Méo and not by Henri Jayer who is associated with the domaine (although he consulted later between 1985 and 1988). If this bottle did one thing, it was to attest to how good Jean Méo was as a winemaker. Elegant and refined on the nose, the passing years had done nothing to diminish either its complexity or intensity. Juniper berries and mulberry, wild hedgerow and iris, moving towards girolles with time, it is a beautiful bouquet. The palate follows suit: extremely well balanced with great weight. Tensile to the last, it is the kind of Clos de Vougeot that puts a great big smile on your face. What a stunning wine. Tasted November 2016.