The Fossati cru is normally the estate’s most oak-dominated wine. But the 2009 Barolo Fossati shows much greater restraint and harmony overall. Dark fruit tones mingle seamlessly with crushed mineral, licorice and tar. This wine shows a greater level of finesse and a finer structure that will help it conclude its bottle evolution. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. It must be the name “Adelaide” that leads my thoughts to exotic and far-away Australia, but every time I encounter the wines from this estate, the words “New World” immediately come to mind. It’s a little wine-tinted Rorschach test that never fails. Needless to say, the heavy use of French oak does a lot to reinforce that stubborn mental tick. Importer: Tesori Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (310) 455-9463

Supple and polished, offering cherry, currant, briar and black tea flavors. The smooth texture quickly gives way to dusty tannins, but this comes together on the lingering aftertaste. Needs at least five years in the cellar. Best from 2016 through 2030. 500 cases made, 250 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add