The 2011 Nero d’Avola Sagana San Giacomo sees fruit sourced from the 140-hectare Tenuta di San Giacomo near the town of Butera in south-central Sicily. The vineyard is 350 meters above sea level with primarily white limestone soils. This is a big wine (15% alcohol) and modern tones of barbecue spice, teriyaki and smoked bacon woven deep within the folds of the wine’s opulent texture. Oak-related tones of sandalwood, dark chocolate and church incense also emerge (Sagana sees 12 months in oak casks). It’s a deep and satisfying drinking experience, although there’s little left in the way of varietal typicity. Drink 2014-2020. Diego and Alberto Cusumano are two of the handsome faces that I most associate with the modern Sicilian wine renaissance. When Sicilian wine really started to pick up speed two decades ago, the Cusumano brothers were an important part of the “Rat Pack” (including Tasca, Donnafugata and Planeta) at the tippy top of the production pyramid. They are tireless promoters and hardworking managers. They’ve definitely quieted down over the past five years or so, choosing to focus on recent land acquisitions (including 15 hectares on Etna) and new winery construction. Always a strong presence in domestic markets (it is one of the top-consumed brands in Sicily, for example), I get the sense that Cusumano is now shifting focus to foreign markets (they recently signed with Terlato Wines as their U.S. importer). I’d also like to report on a big upswing in quality, especially among Cusumano’s entry-level wines. The addition of the vineyard names to the front label is also new. Importer: Terlato Wines, www.terlatowines.com