The least impressive in the lineup, yet still outstanding, the 2003 Syrah Cailloux Vineyard is fully mature, with lots of licorice, dried chocolate, savory herbs and spice giving way to a full-bodied, ripe, full-flavored style on the palate. Coming from a hot vintage, it’s drinking nicely today, but I suspect is best consumed over the coming couple of years.

Viognier (4%) was co-fermented with Syrah to produce the candied blackberry, leather, and sweat-scented 2003 Syrah Cailloux Vineyard. Medium to full-bodied and broad on the attack, this black fruit-filled wine tightens to reveal a bright, slightly tangy finish. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Tel. (509) 301-6972; www.cayusevineyards.com

Incredible fruit intensity. Cranberry, pomegranate and cherry meet rock, gravel and pepper. Lovely focus and purity; it’s concentrated and tight, with a minerality that is compelling and distinctive. The best yet from Cailloux. Syrah is co-fermented with 4 or 5% Viognier. It’s a world-class effort, still quite young and tight, but built for beautiful aging. ——P.G.(4/1/2006)—— 95