Syrah is the principal raison d’etre at Cayuse Vineyards. In a typical vintage five are produced beginning with the 2004 Syrah “Cailloux Vineyard,” a cuvee co-fermented with 4% Viognier. It delivers a splendid nose of lavender, leather, meat, and blueberry jam. This is followed by a wine with great flavor already exhibiting complexity. It could use a bit more depth but that is a minor matter. This beauty can be enjoyed through 2025. If that is not enough, I tasted a barrel sample of a 2005 Grenache which rivals the best grown in the USA. Could it be that before long Manfred Krankl of SQN will be known as the Christophe Baron of the Central Coast?Tel. (509) 526-0686; www.cayuse.com

Flowers, white pepper, iodine, seashell, lemon oil, this is amazingly concentrated. It shoots off an amazing panoply of flavors—all the density, complexity and detail is maintained at rather high alcohol (15.5%). The fruits run from berries through stone fruits to tropical, woven together into a delicious tangle. This is so compact and distinctive that words fail; it sails through layers and layers of exotic flavors, with the characteristic earthy, funky edge that vigneron Christophe Baron imparts.——P.G.(11/1/2008)—— 96