The dark ruby-colored Volnay Clos Des Chenes (also aged in 30% new oak) was impossibly closed (aromatically-speaking) the day I tasted it. However, it has a lively, full-bodied, thick, Asian spice, wild blueberry and blackberry-packed palate that suggests greatness. Its exceptionally long finish ends on notes of sweet red fruits and cracked black pepper. Given the wine's intense richness, the fragrance will surely emerge. Anticipated maturity: 1999-2009. As always, ratings with a score in parentheses indicate the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Importer: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel (617) 731-6644.