The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes offers brisk ripe cranberry and blackberry scents on the nose—nicely defined even if not quite in the same class as the 2015. The palate is pretty rather than powerful. Ample red cherry and strawberry fruit with quite supple tannin, leading to a rounded, lightly grippy finish that maybe just misses the complexity and ambition of the Les Champans this year.