Torbreck's 2016 The Laird is just being released after its extended time in barrel. I'm still unconvinced by the élevage, as the wood seems to have the upper hand, marking the nose with scents of smoke, cedar, menthol and baking spices. Yes, there's ample underlying fruit—mulberries and Italian plums—but it all takes on a slightly dessert-like cast that's only partially balanced by lingering hints of black olives, licorice and caramelized meat on the extended finish. Give this another few years in bottle so the oak-imparted notes further meld with the fruit and form a more complete, harmonious whole.

This extraordinary wine is complex and distinctive, with aromatic sandalwood and mahogany details, black walnut and coffee liqueur accents, and thick, plush notes of blackberry and cassis at the core. The details keep coming on the velvety finish, where fresh spearmint, gingerbread and toasted cumin notes linger. Shiraz. Drink now through 2047. 20 cases imported.??–MW??Region: Australia / Barossa / Barossa Valley Select to Add