Baumard’s 2004 Savennieres Clos du Papillon smells alluringly and pungently of lemon, white pepper, flowers and herbs, with a distinctively appellation-typical note of oyster shell. Bracing and juicy and positively lilting, yet densely concentrated on the palate, it finishes with amazing intensity of salt, chalk and stone as well as infectious citricity. While it will strike some tasters as austere – and there is certainly a trace of bitterness – it should gain richness over the next 8-12 years. Importer: Ex Cellars wine Agencies, Cambridge, MA; tel. (617) 876-5105

So-called because the vineyard resembles the wings of a butterfly (papillon), this is the top Baumard Savennieres cru. It has richness, a touch of caramel, but an intense mineral, green plum and citrus character that gives it structure and ageability. Screwcap.——R.V.(10/1/2007)—— 93