Made since the 1970s, and always at the top rung of California dessert wines. The cool vintage actually aided the wine, since it prodded the development of botrytis. Elaborate and unctuous, the apricot and peach flavors are very sweet, but crisp acidity provides balance. The texture is pure velvet, right through the long, sweet finish. ——S.H.(12/1/2002)—— 94