The 2003 Late Bottled Vintage Port, bottled in November, 2009, is a blend of 30% Tinta da Barca, 40% Touriga Nacional and 30% Touriga Franca, coming in at 87.5 grams per liter of residual sugar. That is a bottling date at the longer end of the LBV scale because, said CEO and Head Winemaker Jo?o Nicolau de Almeida, "it is a very powerful wine with slightly aggressive tannins and it thus needed more time before bottling." That seems like a rather typical comment on the 2003s – I've heard it from several wineries. This simply takes no prisoners. LBVs often got a bit of a lift from this powerful vintage. So, too, here. Still a baby, this is ridiculously youthful for an LBV at age 12, fresh, concentrated, exuberant in flavor, gripping and intense, with a fair bit of astringency still on the palate – notwithstanding that long time in barrel. Its intensity and focus makes it seem like quite a lot of wine for the original price point, and a far cry from run-of-the-mill LBVs. Its intensity of flavor makes it quite a pleasure to drink, too. It will hold well for decades still. It seemed even more powerful some days later, almost to a fault as the hard tannins took over. It has the feel of a Vintage Port in more than a few respects. It could actually use a little more time in the cellar, but it is approachable now. Although it is nowhere near peak, I think it is worth leaning up on this Big Boy for its potential.

Firm and dry, this LBV from a fine Port year is structured, showing dry tannins as well as ripe, dry fruits. That means the richness is restrained, giving elegance, perfumes of violets and finishing with some tight acidity. ——R.V.(2/1/2009)—— 88