The exotic 1985 possesses a deep ruby color, and a full-throttle bouquet of sweet, ripe berry fruit, herbs, toffee, mocha, and toasty oak. Rather awkward during its first 5-6 years after bottling, it has settled down to reveal a lavishly rich texture, unctuously ripe flavors, and a sweet, alcoholic, lush finish. It is a dramatically ostentatious style of wine, so be prepared. Anticipated maturity: Now-2001. Last tasted,7/93.

A sexy tart of a wine, this open-knit, expensive, fleshy wine offers up sumptuous notes of smoked herbs, melted caramel, espresso, jammy black currant and cherry fruit, and plenty of licorice. Very sweet, round, and luscious in the mouth with an unctuous texture, no obvious tannins, and a silky-textured, lush finish, this fully mature Le Pin should continue to drink well for 5-10 more years. Anticipated maturity: Now-2012. Last tasted 12,/01.