Colin's 1998 Montrachet (produced from 75- to 80-year-old vines) was harvested at 13.8% natural potential alcohol, and took seven months to ferment. Its nut-laden aromas give way to an intense, medium to full-bodied personality. Thickly textured, massively ripe, concentrated, and powerful, this roasted almond and mineral-flavored wine has extraordinary elegance and precision. The bottle tasted for this report had been opened and decanted for a few hours, yet appeared, fresh, youthful, and vibrant. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2012+. Pierre-Yves Colin stated that in 1998, "The oidium was infernal." His solution was to have his pickers sort the grape bunches as they were being picked. He defines the vintage as one of "full of promise, not a spontaneous one." He is convinced that they will age remarkably well, citing as evidence his experience that bottles opened for consumers who visited the estate tasted better two days after having been opened. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel (212) 775-8185.