As a huge fan of Matrot’s Blagny La Piece Sous le Bois (red) since I first tasted the 1989 (many subsequent vintages have been outstanding) at Jean-Marc Roulot’s insistence in 1991, I am always excited to try the new vintage. Medium to dark ruby-colored, the 2003 bursts from the glass with deep plummy black cherry aromas. Light to medium-bodied, it is an exceptionally pretty wine that displays intense jammy black cherries, raspberries, fresh red cherries, violets, and spices. Satin-textured and feminine, it also reveals a long, fruit-filled finish. Given my past experience with this wine (explained in part by Matrot’s admittance that he “adjusts” it regularly), readers should wait for two to three years before opening a bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Importers: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802; and Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400