While the light-bodied, innocuous, shallow 1989 Barbaresco offers immediate drinkability, it lacks the concentration, character, and complexity found in most Barbarescos from this vintage. The Fontanafredda estate is one of the oldest Piedmont estates. Interestingly, in my college and law school days the Fontanafredda Barolos were my introduction to the wonders of Piedmontese wines. A few bottles of the 1970 and 1971, bearing price tags of $5.99, remain in my cellar. Both wines are still drinking beautifully, revealing no signs of decline, a testament to just how long these wines can last. In top vintages, Fontanafredda can produce a half dozen or more single vineyard Barolos. In the tastings I did in Piedmont, the winery presented one bottling of 1990 and four bottlings of 1989, three of which were single vineyard wines. The quality of the 1989s looks to be very high. Importer: Dreyfus, Ashby, and Co., New York, NY.