Columbia Crest’s 2004 Syrah contains less than 1% Viognier. All of the fruit was sourced from Horse Heaven Hills and spent 20 months in new oak, half French and half American. Opaque purple-colored, it has an expressive perfume of pepper, spice box, and blueberry. It makes an intense entry on the palate with layers of spicy blue fruits, firm tannin, good balance, and excellent length. More complexity would have earned a higher score but it is definitely a crowd pleaser.Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

Perhaps a bit bottle-shocked from its recent transportation, this Reserve Syrah resisted my attempts to pry open its fruit. Soft and pleasantly oaky, it hinted at cocoa and mocha over orange peel and blueberry fruit, but the fruit remained dumbed down and so the score must remain dumbed down as well. ——P.G.(12/31/2006)—— 87