The 2006 Syrah Reserve was sourced from several AVAs. It was co-fermented with 1.5% whole berry Viognier and 1.5% Grenache and aged for 30 months in equal parts of new French and American oak. It emits an aromatic array of smoke, game, bacon, floral notes, blueberry, and a hint of chocolate. Medium-bodied, smooth-textured, and succulent, this lengthy, pleasure-bent Syrah will drink well for another 6-8 years. At the asking price, it is a superb value in stylish Syrah. Columbia Crest, owned by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, has long been known for the quality of its value-priced wines. The current collection will only enhance the winery’s reputation. Columbia Crest is usually thought of as a producer of value-priced wines selling for under $20. However, their upper-level, limited-production wines merit serious attention as they, too, are value-priced compared to the competitionTel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

In 2006, the Syrah stands as the best of the Columbia Crest reserves. Sweet and sappy, it’s loaded with thick blueberry flavors, just this side of syrup, along with dark chocolate, pepper and coffee. The blend includes a splash of Grenache and Viognier, and they may help keep it feeling lively and not too heavy.——P.G.(12/31/2009)—— 91