The Gevrey-Chambertin is surprisingly opulent for a generic wine. The deep ruby/purple color is followed by a wine with plenty of sweet red and black fruits intertwined with scents of damp wood and flowers. Medium-bodied, concentrated, and soft, with no hard edges, this wine should drink well for 6-8 years. As the ratings attest, Claude Dugat, working in his 13th century abbey/wine cellar called Cellier des Dimes, hit several home runs in the 1993 vintage. His whole berry fermentation provides more fruit, but in his modest manner, Claude takes no credit for what are once again profound red Burgundies. No wonder when Lalou Bize-Leroy purchased wine for her negociant firm, she made this cellar one of her frequent stops. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083