Every year, the Dugat family reserves a barrel of wine from the lieu-dit of La Marie, just behind the domaine, for their own consumption. And since this bottle of the 2003 Gevrey-Chambertin Villages hailed from that barrel, it may not be entirely representative of the overall blend; Bertrand Dugat comments that La Marie tends to produce a richer, fuller-bodied wine than some of their other parcels. This bottle is aging very gracefully, however, offering up a nose of ripe cassis, plums, loamy soil and grilled meat. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, richly tannic and intensely flavorful, showing the warmth of the vintage but not at the expense of its sense of place.