The 2004 Majora possesses a deep, powerful personality imbued with the essence of black cherries, spices, cola, smoke and tar. Brooding and closed at first, the wine gradually turns more refined with air. Still, another year or two of bottle aging should help tame the wine’s big tannins. This blend of Nero d’Avola, Syrah, Tannat and Petit Verdot spent 18 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. Benanti is making some of the most compelling wines coming out of Sicily’s re-discovered Mount Etna appellation. These dramatic, old vines are grown on the slopes of the volcano and offer plenty of site-specific character. Most of the wines are made from indigenous varieties although international grapes are used in a few of the reds. I can’t add much more, except to urge readers to discover the extraordinary wines of Benanti. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

This gorgeous blend of Nero d’Avola, Syrah, Tannat and Petit Verdot (aged 18 months in oak) is delicate and elegant yet delivers power and intensity at the same time. The quality of fruit is pristine and crisp and is kept in check thanks to the wine’s spicy aromas of vanilla and clove. It finishes bright and tart with lingering notes of berry fruit and spice.——M.L.(11/1/2008)—— 92