Bertheau fashioned the terrific 2004 Chardonnay Ethos from three vineyards, Canoe Ridge Estate (55%), Cold Creek (35%), and Wahluke Slope (10%). Aromatically bursting with spices, this medium to full-bodied wine reveals spicy pears in the attack that build in intensity through the mid-palate and then return with a vengeance in its long sappy finish. A highly concentrated white, it is satin-textured, sappy, and wonderfully balanced. Drink it between 2007 and 2015. Tel. (800) 267-6793; www.ste-michelle.com

Wonderfully leesy and complex, the second vintage of the top-of-the-line Ethos Chardonnay has intriguing streaks of orange peel and citrus zest, along with buttered nuts, toast and hazelnut flavors. All the different elements are threaded through the palate and continue into the long, silky finish. The only off notes, perhaps due to the youth of the wine, are some high-toned volatile scents and a bit of alcoholic heat in the back of the palate. ——P.G.(6/1/2006)—— 91