The 2006 Ethos Chardonnay is a blend of the best barrels from the Canoe Ridge and Cold Creek Vineyards. In this vintage, 82% of the wine was aged in new oak, revealed in the toasty, butterscotch aromatics. The wine has a bit more richness than the single vineyard offerings and its bright acidity suggests that it might evolve for 2-3 years. It has a smooth mouth-feel and all components are in harmony leading to a lengthy finish. Chateau Ste. Michelle, Washington’s largest winery, continues to demonstrate that being big is not incompatible with high quality. The latest set of releases may be the strongest to date.Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

Ethos is the top of the Chardonnay pyramid for Ste. Michelle; consistent with other, less expensive bottlings, in its explosion of ripe fruit and generous amount of buttery oak. But here the oak comes from pricey barrels and the steely acids provide a spine that is missing from the others. This is a fine example of Washington Chardonnay, and could be cellared for up to a decade.——P.G.(6/1/2009)—— 90