The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva comes across as a bit reticent. It reveals lovely detail and nuance, but without the firmness of many other young vintages. Today the 2006 is quite accessible. I will be surprised if it doesn’t start shutting down at some point. Regardless, the 2006 appears to be built more on finesse rather than power. Freshly cut flowers, hard candy and licorice are layered into the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2046. Biond-Santi remains a beacon for traditionally made Rosso and Brunello. At 90 years of age, Franco Biondi-Santi insisted on leading my tasting of wines from cask and bottle. The years go by for all of us, but I haven’t seen any decrease in Biondi-Santi’s enthusiasm and passion. The Biondi-Santi wines are more approachable young than they used to be, but little else appears to have changed. Biondi-Santi harvests on the early side. The wines see long macerations on the skins – in steel for the straight Brunello (also known as the Annata) and oak for the Riserva – and are then aged in large oak casks.Importer: Vision Wine & Spirits, Secaucus, NJ; tel. (201) 210-0400