From a small (5 barrel-) parcel he has had now for a decade, Clair’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin La Petit Chapelle smells quite fetchingly of black cherry, licorice and cinnamon. Intense, fresh and juicy but with an almost liqueur-like sweet side to the fruit, and as close to early generosity as any of the wines here come, this finishes strongly with tremendous sap, energy and freshness of fruit, along with decidedly chalky and salty mineral tone and an eventual faint hint of caramel from the oak. (One of five barrels is new.) Bruno Clair and his long-time cellar master Philippe Brun persist in rendering Pinots of uncompromising structure and fruit acid retention that are by no means long on youthful charm. Their 2005 collection was all still in barrel, from which I did selected tasting rather than (with one already assembled exception) tasting an at all precise reflection of the final blend. A small percentage of whole clusters was employed on the Gevrey crus, rising to 20% in the Clos de Beze. Brun decides whether or not to filter based on the character of the vintage and the result of trials. In 2005, he won’t. A couple of the Marsannays here were showing a rather awkward alternation between bright fresh fruit acidity and caramelized faintly wood tones, but admittedly, with larger cuvees, that is a tricky thing to judge prior to assemblange. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay Vaudenelles ($32.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Marsannay Grasse Tetes ($39.00; 85-87+?). Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802