From barrel, the Clair 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin La Petit Chapelle reveals even in its aromas a pronouncedly saline, marine note that translates into a mouthwatering savor delightfully complimenting its dark, tart-skinned berry fruit. Fine-grained, subtly integrated tannins permit the brightness of fruit acidity and invigorating salinity to exercise their considerable, long-finishing charm. This displays less raw fruit and mineral concentration than the corresponding Clos du Fonteny, but more immediate appeal, yet, like that eventual bottling, ought to be worth following for ten or a dozen years. Bruno Clair and Philippe Brun report that they had to warm their cellar to encourage the primary fermentations of their 2008s, and their 2009s were already into malo before the 2008s finished. In consequence, even their Marsannays from the latter vintage had only been assembled the day I visited them in February. (Other wines were recently assembled or still in barrel, as noted in the text, and most were destined for May bottling.) The 2008 harvest here did not commence until the beginning of October. "You had mature sugars," says Clair echoing a frequent refrain, "but not mature skins or pips." Quantities were almost shockingly small this year, the Gevrey Crus ranging between 20-25 hectoliters per hectare, and there is certainly no lack of structure in what for now present themselves as a somewhat severely concentration collection. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802