The blockbuster 2004 Highland Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Mountain Estate comes from Jess Jackson’s vineyard on Mt. Veeder. Another 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 21 months in mostly new French oak, it boasts an inky/purple color in addition to sweet aromas of blue fruits, creme de cassis, licorice, and graphite. Full-bodied, pure, structured, and built for the long haul, there are only 422 cases of this gorgeous Cabernet. A wine for connoisseurs, it requires 4-5 years of cellaring, and should last for 20-25 years. Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5985

Randy Ullom is crafting some of the best Cabernets in California these days, small-lot releases made from selected mountain vineyards. This one’s made in the house style, offering tiers of ripe fruit wrapped into a soft, velvety wine of great style and complexity. Fully dry, this 100% varietal is instantly appealing for its plush cherry, chocolate and blackberry flavors that finish with the smoky sweetness of new oak.——S.H.(6/1/2007)—— 93