A limited cuvee of 289 cases, the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Mountain (100% from Mt. Veeder) is a gorgeous California Cabernet Sauvignon reminiscent of the Graves wine La Mission Haut-Brion. A scorched earth and volcanic ash character intermixed with loads of smoky cassis, blackberry, and blueberry jump from the glass of this full-bodied wine that is powerful, rich, and built for the long haul. This is a fabulous wine that is actually a super value for Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Give it 3-4 years of bottle age and drink it over the following 30 years. Despite the size of some of the cuvees produced at Kendall-Jackson (2.3 million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay and 300,000 bottles of Sauvignon Blanc), winemaker Randy Ullom is at the top of his game, and of course is given carte blanche authority by the two principals, Barbara Banke and her husband Jess Jackson. There are some terrific values in this portfolio.Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5985

From up on Mount Veeder comes this lush, dramatically complex Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s really fine, with ripe, intricately layered tannins that give the wine a texture of dramatic importance, and luscious Cabernet flavors that change from sip to sip. Blackberries, currants, cherries, cedar, it’s all there in this 100% varietal wine, a very great expression of Napa mountain Cab, and an ager as well. Winery only.——S.H.(6/1/2008)—— 96