The estate’s 2004 Poggibano is 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon grown in Massa Marittima, in the province of Grosseto, that spends 13 months in French oak. The wine offers excellent length and inner sweetness in its dark fruit, smoke, licorice and tar, but it doesn’t quite have the expansiveness and generosity that the finest wines of this region have. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. Importers: Premium Brands, Forest Hills, NY; tel. (718) 263-4094; Opici Wines , www.opiciwines.com