A good bargain is the 2004 St.-Joseph Les Challeys. Deep ruby/purple with nice floral notes intermixed with crushed rocks, raspberry, and cherry, this dark ruby/purple-colored wine is medium-bodied, richly fruity, and ideal for drinking over the next 4-5 years. The very talented Burgundian Jacques Granges continues to build on the success he has had at Delas Freres. He, along with the new owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne empire (they recently acquired Pichon-Lalande in Pauillac as well), have been responsible for the resurrection of Delas from a so-so negociant to one of the better sources of top-quality Rhones. And this has been done in less than a decade. 2004 is a classic vintage of structure and good balance, but too often lacking concentration. The 2005s are much more concentrated but also structured, tannic, and backward. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Juicy for the vintage, showing a nice core of plum and blackberry fruit, with mineral, game and briar notes and nice flesh on the finish. Not imported into the U.S. Drink now through 2009. 5,830 cases made. -JM