The 2013 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Charmois comes from the domaine’s 0.17 hectare parcel. Bottled in August, it has a light fresh and clean, orange-blossom-scented bouquet that opens nicely in the glass. The palate is crisp on the entry, balanced, if lacking the complexity of one or two other Charmois that I have tasted during my rounds of 2013. Still, there is a pleasant spicy note that lingers on the aftertaste.

The 2010 St. Aubin Le Charmois wraps around the palate with expressive yellow stone fruits, flowers and spices. The Charmois captures the appeal of the vintage, but in a fairly approachable style best suited for drinking over the next handful of years. Anticipated maturity: 2012. Bruno Colin reported that in 2010 his yields were down 10-15%, but adds some of his oldest plots were hit even harder, and came in 25-30% lower than normal. Overall, this is a solid set of wines, with plenty of vintage and site-specific character. The Bourgogne, St. Aubin Le Charmois and Chassagne villages were bottled before the 2011 harvest, while the rest of the wines were bottled in March 2012. Importers: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 299-2600, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

The 2009 St. Aubin En Charmois emerges from the glass with yellow stone fruit, ash and flowers. It is another racy, opulent wine that should offer its finest drinking relatively early. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Bruno Colin’s 2009s show quite a bit of freshness for the year. The harvest began early, on September 5. The malos were finished in between December 2009 and March 2010. The Bourgogne, St. Aubin En Charmois and Chassagne-Montrachet were bottled before the 2010 harvest, while the rest of the 2009s were bottled in March 2011. I tasted the 2010 Bourgogne Aligote, Bourgogne, St. Aubin En Charmois and Chassagne-Montrachet from steel, while the remainder of the 2010s were in barrel. Colin planned to rack the rest of the 2010s in July and bottle in the winter of 2011/2012. Importers: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524