Derived from fully five different parcels in this large and diverse climat, the 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly offers up aromas of citrus oil and peach mingled with freshly baked bread, white flowers and honeycomb. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, it's lively and precise, with fine depth at the core and a long, saline finish. It's a real success this year.

The 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly has also turned out nicely, displaying aromas of pear, fresh bread, confit lemon and nutmeg, framed by a promising—at this stage in its élevage—touch of reduction. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's ample and elegantly textural, but built around a lovely spine of acidity, concluding with a lively finish.

The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly spent some time in a foudre from Tonnellerie Rousseau that Colin feels marked the wine excessively, adding an exotic inflection of orange blossom and guava to its bouquet of citrus oil, fresh bread and pastry. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and open-knit, it's supple and charming, but I don't think it will ever match the 2017 or 2019 renditions.

Wafting from the glass with scents of crisp yellow orchard fruit, ripe white peach, beeswax and oyster shell, the 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly is medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and charming, with a deep and voluminous core of fruit, lively acids and a saline finish. This has gained in tension with élevage.