The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sous Roche Dumay is ample and charming, offering up aromas of pear, praline, confit citrus and lemon zest. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and giving, with lively acids and a saline finish, it's one of the domaine's young-vine cuvées.

The 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sous Roche Dumay is another success, mingling aromas of pear, blanched almonds and citrus oil. Medium-bodied, bright and chiseled, with tangy acids and good depth at the core, it would be hard to guess that it comes from rather young vines.

The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sous Roche Dumay is another open and expressive wine, bursting with aromas of citrus oil, honeycomb and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a generous but nicely balanced profile. This comes from young vines.

The 2016 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Sous Roche Dumay has a beguiling nose of almond, hazelnut, citrus peel and saline scents that really make a deep impression. How can you not like this? The palate does not quite match up to the promise of the aromatics with its lightly honeyed entry and saline finish. It falls short of the mineralité to merit a higher score but it is still very well crafted.

The 2015 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Sous Roche Dumay, which came from tank and had spent 12 months in barrel (20% new ), has a taut, slightly more austere, stony bouquet that suggests that it will benefit from 12-24 months in bottle once that is done next year. The palate is medium-bodied with fresh nectarine and white peach notes on the entry. There is a slight viscosity that become more apparent towards the finish and perhaps just shaves away some of the tension and mineralité that it might have had in a cooler growing season. Still, this is a commendable Saint Aubin that should give a decades' worth of drinking pleasure.