A pure expression of Merlot, the Frescobaldi 2016 Lamaione Tenuta CastelGiocondo is plush, layered and soft. Merlot does not have much of a track record in this part of Tuscany, save for the big estates (like Frescobaldi) who have the resources and vineyard space to plant this French grape in what is a sacred land of Sangiovese. But if Montalcino didn't have such a monoculture dedicated to a single grape variety, there would indeed be ample space for a grape like this. You get a cool-climate interpretation of Merlot with lots of ruby cherry, cedarwood and sweet spice in this enjoyable 15,000-bottle release.

This is a pure expression of Merlot from the Frescobaldi estate in Montalcino that has been in production since 1991. The early ripening French variety had a little trouble in this cold and wet vintage. Grapes that ripened later in the autumn season were able to take advantage of a late season heat spike. However, the 2014 Lamaione Tenuta Castelgiocondo shows juicy characteristics of the grape with cherry and fresh blackberry. This is a mid-weight wine with good density but is perhaps a little shorter in terms of persistence in this vintage.

The 2010 Lamaione is a delightful expression of Merlot that shows soft tones of cherry and dark spice that are woven within the tight texture of the wine. The appearance is dark and impenetrable and the quality of the bouquet is bright and true to varietal character. Lamaione delivers soft, silky tannins that have been expertly enhanced by oak spice flavors.

The 2009 Lamaione is rich, racy and impeccably balanced from start to finish. Super-ripe red cherries, raspberries, flowers, mocha and spices all come to life in this voluptuous, large-scaled wine. The 2009 isn’t as super-sized or oaky as some previous versions. At the same time, there is a measure of freshness that is unusual for the year and that helps release some of the energy of the fruit. With time in the glass the floral notes become more pronounced, adding a bright upper register that is highly appealing. The Frescobaldi family and their team have done a terrific job with the 2009 Lamaione. This is an impressive showing. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700

The 2008 Lamaione opens with expressive, beautifully delineated bousquet. Sweet grilled herbs, tobacco, smoke and licorice add complexity to the fruit in this harmonious wine. This is a very pretty, restrained vintage for Lamaione. Silky tannins render the wine accessible today, but it will be even better once the tannins soften a bit further. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700