The 2005 Poggibano, from vineyards in Maremma, is ripe and generous in its dark fruit. The warmth of Maremma is very much in evidence in the wine's volume and perfume. The finish is just a touch short. Poggibano is Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 12 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Importer: Premium Brands, Forest Hills, NY; tel. (718) 263-4094

The estate’s 2004 Poggibano is 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon grown in Massa Marittima, in the province of Grosseto, that spends 13 months in French oak. The wine offers excellent length and inner sweetness in its dark fruit, smoke, licorice and tar, but it doesn’t quite have the expansiveness and generosity that the finest wines of this region have. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. Importers: Premium Brands, Forest Hills, NY; tel. (718) 263-4094; Opici Wines , www.opiciwines.com