A trio of 2017 single-vineyard Semillons are in front of me, and the 2017 Belford Semillon is showing the excellent vintage to its greatest possible iteration. Toasted bay leaf, brine, sun-drenched hay, roasted green apple skins, sandalwood and matcha adorn the nose, while the procession of flavor in the mouth is seemingly never-ending. It's richer and more savory than the HVD Semillon tasted before it, but it has no less of an acid line, nor glassy purity. Excellent. This has won two trophies and five gold medals at wine shows since its release.

The 2013 Single Vineyard Belford Semillon puts forward aromas of lemongrass, Granny Smith apples and fresh hay with a delicate herbal undercurrent. Bone dry and light-bodied, it has a crisp yet approachable acid backbone and a long, chalky finish. Drink it now to 2019+. Imported by Indigo Wine Group, FL; tel: (941) 483 1816

The 2009 Belford Semillon is another single vineyard example possessing more of a poached pears and peaches character, though there’s still some white pepper. Crisp. More concentration and weight on the palate and increased viscosity compared to most Hunter Semillons. Long finish. Drink 2011 – 2019. A pioneer of the Hunter Valley, today Tyrrell’s still sets the benchmark for this region, producing Semillons, Chardonnays and Shirazes that are amongst the best if not the finest in the Hunter when their vineyards and the vintage align. Since selling their entry level Long Flat label, focus at Tyrrell’s has returned to producing middle range to premium wines and the increased emphasis on quality is evident in their recent releases. While the Semillons have always been a forte and the Vat 47 Chardonnay one of Australia’s finest, it’s the Shirazes for me that are displaying the most marked improvement, displaying wonderful purity and intensity. Importer: Indigo Wine Group, FL; tel: (941) 483-1816

The 2007 Single Vineyard Belford Hunter Semillon has a nose of lemongrass, dried thyme and grapefruit peel with hints of kumquat and crushed stones. The dry, light-bodied palate has opened up nicely to fill the mouth with preserved lemon and dried herb notes alongside a crisp acid line that leads to a good, long finish. Delicious now, it should cellar to 2019+. Importer: Indigo Wine Group, FL; tel. (941) 483-1816