The Brundlmayer 2008 Pinot Noir Cecile features an alkaline and smoky cast typical for this bottling especially as it matures, but also with a slightly detached hint of toasted woodiness and gum numbing tannin. That said, tart fresh cherry and rhubarb fruit offer bright refreshment, and it could be that this simply needs more time to harmonize, though I would hesitate to plan on holding it for more than 2-3 additional years.Despite the relatively short crop in 2010, Brundlmayer notes that volumes were not inordinately impacted at the upper level of his portfolio, and that he expects as usual, if not more so, to take time with the release of the top Gruner Veltliner. (Brundlmayer is also among the very few Austrian growers to - largely for the benefit of his foreign customers - re-release selected wines after they have had a number of years in bottle; and he releases virtually no reds until they have enjoyed significant bottle age.) For now though, 2010 seems to be a collection that reflects its vintage's challenges and in which Riesling from the Heiligenstein is clearly the star. Brundlmayer's 2009s - the whites, at least - are more uniformly excellent. (He won-t begin showing me 2009 reds until next June.) What's more, some sort of miracle, the like of which I have never before witnessed at this address, seems to have taken place under the auspices of noble rot (and those sweet 2009s should come our way in the next year or two). The high quality and fascination of Brundlmayer's diverse sparkling cuvees is worth once again noting, even if I have omitted publishing detailed notes and small-lot designations for what are always officially non-vintage wines. It's also worth singling-out an all"2007 cuvee of Pinot and Chardonnay with a bit of Gruner Veltliner that was bottled Extra Brut "-though believe, me," notes Brundlmayer, "we try-out nearly every sort of dosage and were surprised that this performed better without" - a wine whose combination of herbal, vegetal, nutty, and mineral tones offers subtly delicious -food- for thought.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Brundlmayer’s 2004 Pinot Noir Cecile smells, quite typical for this wine, of cherry, plum, and soy, ringed by a hint of wood smoke. Subtly creamy yet clear and juicy on the palate, it displays considerable refinement and complexity of pit fruits, smoked meat, and forest floor in the finish. Don’t hesitate to sock some of this away – the 1997, for example, is ravishing today. Also reviewed 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen ($21.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang ($16.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben ($42.00; 86+?), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg ($62.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Kamptaler Terrassen ($23.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinmassel ($30.00; 86), 2003 St. Laurent Ladner (unknown; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

No surprise that Willi Brundlmayer is one of the few in Austria to have real success with Pinot Noir. This is soft, ripe, enveloping, with bitter cherry flavors rounded at the edges with sweet tannins and refreshing acidity.——R.V.(8/1/2008)—— 89

This wine was recommended, but no tasting note was given.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300