The 2004 Crozes-Hermitage Le Clos has a dark ruby color, an expressive nose of crushed rocks, austere, tannic flavors, big structure and depth, but is broodingly backward. This wine should age nicely for at least a decade. The very talented Burgundian Jacques Granges continues to build on the success he has had at Delas Freres. He, along with the new owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne empire (they recently acquired Pichon-Lalande in Pauillac as well), have been responsible for the resurrection of Delas from a so-so negociant to one of the better sources of top-quality Rhones. And this has been done in less than a decade. 2004 is a classic vintage of structure and good balance, but too often lacking concentration. The 2005s are much more concentrated but also structured, tannic, and backward. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000