There is no problem understanding the 2009 Crozes-Hermitage Le Clos. Aged completely in small French oak barrels, it boasts a striking minerality, a wonderfully dense ruby/purple color and sweet notes of creme de cassis, black raspberries, licorice, crushed rocks and spring flowers. Full-bodied and dense, with some tannins still to shed, it will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring and is capable of lasting two decades. Another great negociant with significant vineyard holdings, and at the top of their game, is undeniably Delas, owned by the Louis Roederer/Deutz Champagne firm. Since they acquired Delas well over a decade ago, this firm has been under the management of Burgundian Jacques Grange, who has done an outstanding job producing a sensational array of wines. The 2009s appear to be their finest overall performances to date, and the 2010s are noteworthy successors in a more restrained, mineral dominated, crisper style. Jacques Grange did a fabulous job with his Cote Roties in both 2009 and 2010, the latter being a somewhat more challenging vintage in this appellation. The Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes (until the 2009 vintage, this offering was known as the Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette) is sensational in both 2010 and 2009. Three thousand cases of this cuvee are produced, and the wine is aged in French oak, 50% new. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

A lively, peppery, mineral-driven style, with a strong iron note running through the core of crushed plum and blackberry. Features a lingering white pepper edge on the slightly dusty finish. Best from 2013 through 2020. 70 cases imported. –JM