The 2008 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana is another imposing wine, but it never seems to fully soften. Dark red fruit, sweet herbs and crushed flowers are some of the nuances that occasionally make an appearance. Today the Calderara Sottana gives the impression of having a fairly narrow drinking window during which the tannins will soften while the fruit retains enough density to provide enjoyment. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2024. Hard as it is to believe, proprietor Marc de Grazia continues to ratchet up the quality at Tenuta delle Terre Nere, his property on Mount Etna. Simply put, these are the most brilliant wines I have ever tasted from de Grazia. The 2008 reds will require patience, however. With one exception, the Don Peppino, the reds are 98% Nerello Mascalese and 2% Nerello Cappuccio and are aged in cask. My only regret is that I was not able to taste the Vigne Niche, the estate's top white. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

Over the centuries, lava flows from Mount Etna have formed natural vineyard terracing and tiny farming pockets, each characterized by a unique microclimate. The Calderara Sottana is a particularly fortunate niche that produces high quality fruit, elegant aromas and firmly polished structure. This wine is silky, long and very beautiful. ——M.L.(4/1/2012)—— 93