The 2009 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana is quite pretty in this vintage. As always, it is one of the more immediate wines in the range. The typically firm tannins are nicely balanced by an expressive, plush core of fruit that fills out the wine’s broad shouldered frame nicely. Dried flowers, savory herbs and a hint of tobacco add complexity to a firm, structured finish that is impossible to resist. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. The Etna boasts two reference point producers and a number of emerging growers. Along with Andrea Franchetti, proprietor Marco de Grazia continues to make compelling wines that set the standard for the Etna. De Grazia’s 2010s are a bit more ethereal than the 2009s, which have a little more mid-palate depth, but also a bit less finesse in my view. Both vintages have their strengths. I followed these wines over the greater part of a day and can report they perform best with 4-6 hours of aeration. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887