The dense purple-tinged 2003 St.-Joseph displays the vintage’s exotic, ripe, concentrated character in its heady, alcoholic flavors of creme de cassis, blackberries, and tapenade. Consume it over the next decade. Proprietor Louis Barruol is one of the two finest producers of Gigondas (his wines rival those of Yves Gras’ Santa Duc), and also has a burgeoning negociant operation dedicated to making tasty wines. Readers should note that the estate wines are bottled under the Chateau Saint-Cosme label, and the negociant wines, made from purchased wines or grapes, are simply called Saint-Cosme. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; (561) 998-0039; Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048; and Vintage ‘59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218